In the golden age of American watchmaking, from the late 19th century through the early 20th, factories in Waltham, Elgin, Hamilton, and Illinois produced millions of pocket watches. These timekeepers were marvels of industrial ingenuity, blending precision with affordability, and became an essential part of daily life. Railroad conductors relied on them to prevent disasters, businessmen checked them between appointments, and soldiers carried them through both World Wars.
Today, those same watches often lie silent in drawers, flea markets, and estate sales. But in recent years, a movement has emerged to breathe new life into them: pocket watch conversions — the transformation of antique American pocket watch movements into modern wristwatches. It’s a practice that divides collectors but fascinates enthusiasts. To understand why, we must look at the history, the process, the controversy, and the enduring appeal.
The wristwatch itself emerged from necessity. Soldiers in the trenches of World War I found it impractical to fumble with pocket watches while handling rifles or maps. Many strapped small pocket watches to their wrists with crude leather holders known as trench watch adapters.
American pocket watches, however, tended to be larger — 12-size or 16-size movements housed in cases designed for vest pockets, not wrists. For decades, they remained firmly in the pocket. But as the wristwatch conquered the 20th century, these once-proud movements became obsolete, often scrapped for their gold cases.
Fast forward to the 21st century. Collectors and artisans began noticing the quality of these discarded movements. American watchmaking, though nearly extinct, had left behind a treasure trove of beautifully finished calibers — with damaskeening, gold jewel settings, and precision engineering. Converting them into wristwatches offered a way to both preserve and reimagine these relics.
Turning a century-old pocket watch movement into a functional wristwatch requires both creativity and skill. The process usually involves several steps:
Selecting a Movement
Popular choices include the Hamilton 921 and 923, the Waltham Colonial Series, and Elgin 12-size grades. These strike a balance between manageable size (40–44 mm once cased) and aesthetic appeal (damaskeening patterns, large jewels, elegant typography).
Sourcing or Building a Case
Since pocket watch movements are much larger than typical wristwatch calibers, standard cases won’t fit. Specialized case makers design wristwatch cases with custom movement rings to house the vintage calibers. These often feature sapphire casebacks to showcase the ornate movements.
Dial and Hands
Some conversions preserve the original pocket watch dial, sometimes refinished for legibility. Others commission custom dials, either to modernize the look or to correct for the pocket watch’s original “12-at-3” orientation. Hands may be original or newly fabricated in vintage styles.
Crown and Stem Adaptation
Pocket watches usually wind at 12 o’clock, but wristwatches traditionally place the crown at 3 o’clock. Converters must re-engineer the keyless works or modify the stem to suit the new orientation.
Finishing and Assembly
Once the movement is serviced, the dial and hands are mounted, and the case prepared, the watch is assembled and tested. The result is a unique piece: an antique heart in a modern body.
A pocket-to-wrist conversion is unlike any other wristwatch. Its appeal lies in several distinctive features:
Movement Beauty: American pocket watches often featured nickel or gilt plates with intricate damaskeening — patterns etched by hand-guided machines. Through a sapphire back, these are mesmerizing.
Oversized Presence: With diameters often in the 42–46 mm range, these watches wear boldly, echoing modern tastes while retaining vintage charm.
Historical Connection: Each movement tells a story. A Hamilton made in Lancaster, PA, in 1935 or a Waltham produced in Massachusetts in 1910 carries with it the history of American industry.
Singularity: No two conversions are exactly alike. Each piece feels like a one-off creation, appealing to collectors who prize individuality.
As with many practices in collecting, pocket watch conversions have their critics.
“Horological Vandalism”
Some purists argue that altering a pocket watch destroys historical integrity. They view conversions as mutilations of artifacts that should be preserved in original form.
Market Impact
Conversions reduce the pool of untouched vintage pocket watches, potentially inflating prices for collectors. Others counter that since many pocket watches were already scrapped for cases, conversions are saving movements from obscurity.
Authenticity Questions
A converted watch is neither a true vintage pocket watch nor an original wristwatch. For some, this “in-between” status diminishes its legitimacy as a collectible object.
Yet, supporters argue that conversions are an act of preservation. Instead of languishing in drawers or being sold for scrap, these movements live again on the wrist, where they can be appreciated daily.
Several independent watchmakers and small companies have embraced conversions as a specialty.
Independent Converters worldwide — from hobbyists restoring a family heirloom to artisans machining bespoke cases — contribute to the culture of conversion.
These efforts, while not universally loved, have raised awareness of America’s horological heritage and even spurred interest in the few remaining domestic watchmakers.
Converting American pocket watches into wristwatches resonates with larger themes in horology and culture:
Nostalgia and Renewal: Just as vintage cars are restored and modified, pocket watches find new life on the wrist.
Sustainability: In an era of mass production, conversions repurpose existing objects rather than consuming new resources.
American Identity: For many collectors, wearing a converted Hamilton or Waltham is a way of celebrating American craftsmanship at a time when domestic watchmaking is scarce.
For those considering a conversion, a few points are worth keeping in mind:
Movement Condition: Ensure the movement is complete and serviceable. Spare parts for many American calibers exist, but not indefinitely.
Case Quality: Well-made conversion cases should be robust, with proper water resistance and dust sealing. Cheap cases undermine the longevity of the piece.
Dial Orientation: Decide whether you want to keep the original dial (with its quirks) or commission a new one for better symmetry.
Value: Conversions rarely hold the same resale value as untouched vintage pieces. Buy for passion, not for investment.
The practice of converting American pocket watches into wristwatches sits at the intersection of preservation and reinvention. To some, it is a compromise; to others, a celebration. But whatever one’s stance, it undeniably sparks conversation — and perhaps that is the ultimate point of horology itself.
At their best, conversions allow us to wear a piece of American history on the wrist, carrying forward the legacy of an industry that once rivaled the Swiss. In doing so, they remind us that timekeeping is not static but alive — a dialogue between past and present, ticking steadily into the future.