At Geneva Watch Days 2025, TAG Heuer unveiled its latest technological triumph: the TH-Carbonspring oscillator—an in-house, carbon-based hairspring poised to redefine mechanical watchmaking.

A Decade in the Making

After a prior misstep in 2019 with the Isograph carbon oscillator—quietly recalled due to reliability issues—TAG Heuer embarked on a six-year, SFr 50 million redevelopment project to refine the concept. According to the brand, the result is a hairspring that excels in anti-magnetism, shock resistance, and low mass, delivering superior chronometric stability across demanding environments. The spring’s porous-carbon composition, once compromised under humidity, has now been re-engineered for full durability—a key advance protected by four new patents.

Two New Limited-Edition Icons: Monaco and Carrera

To celebrate the debut of the TH-Carbonspring, TAG Heuer chose to outfit two of its most recognizable models with the innovation: both feature forged-carbon cases and dials with spiral engravings that nod to the movement’s internal geometry.

1. Monaco Flyback Chronograph TH-Carbonspring
   
   

   • Case: 39 mm forged carbon, 14.1 mm thick, 100 m water resistant
     
     

   • Movement: COSC-certified Calibre TH20-60, automatic flyback chronograph, 4 Hz, 80-hour power reserve
     
     

   • Design: Black-gold hands with white Super-LumiNova, a spiral carbon dial, and stealthy carbon pushers and crown
     
     

   • Limited to 50 pieces, availability from December 2025, priced at CHF 17,000
     
     

2. Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport TH-Carbonspring
   
   

   • Case: 44 mm forged carbon, ~15–15.4 mm thick, 100 m water resistant
     
     

   • Movement: COSC-certified Calibre TH20-61, automatic chronograph with flying tourbillon, 4 Hz, 65-hour power reserve
     
     

   • Features: Carbon tachymeter bezel, spiral dial motif, carbon-applied indexes, black-gold hands with Super-LumiNova
     
     

   • Limited to 50 pieces, available Q1 2026, priced at CHF 40,000
     
     

Brand Story and Vision

This launch marks TAG Heuer’s bold return to materials innovation, reaffirming its identity as a manufacture capable of challenging established rivals. CEO Antoine Pin framed the move as “a technical breakthrough” and a testament to the company’s resilience and emotional ambition in tough times. The debut of these models underscores TAG Heuer’s desire to shift perceptions from marketing brand to manufacturing powerhouse.

Both watches embody emotion beyond technology—a concept the brand seeks to express not only through precision engineering but through its design and story heritage.